Diners are Barrio are seated among almost 300 candles. Photo credit: Clara Ganey

Diners at Barrio are seated among over 350 candles. Photo credit: Clara Ganey

This article originally appeared in the January 21, 2009 issue of The Spectator

From the front, new Capitol Hill Mexican joint “Barrio” keeps a low profile. Dark, tinted glass runs along the sidewalk, and it’s quite easy to walk right by the place without even realizing what’s there. From the side however, it’s a different story.

The simple black “Barrio” written on the wall stands in stark contrast to grandiose 8-foot tall wooden doors covering the entire entrance. Like something from a medieval castle, the huge doors swing open to reveal a dark, candlelit restaurant that will challenge anyone’s expectations of Mexican food.

Diners are seated among over 350 candles, some arranged in a huge wall bisecting the room, others in circular towers floating above the tables and booths. There’s not a light bulb in sight, and the waiters have to pass out small flashlights for easier menu reading. The smells wafting around are not those of lard and greasy meat but instead those of hand-made tortillas and zesty spices.

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