Barrio brings quality Mexican northwest of the border

Diners at Barrio are seated among over 350 candles. Photo credit: Clara Ganey

This article originally appeared in the January 21, 2009 issue of The Spectator

From the front, new Capitol Hill Mexican joint “Barrio” keeps a low profile. Dark, tinted glass runs along the sidewalk, and it’s quite easy to walk right by the place without even realizing what’s there. From the side however, it’s a different story.

The simple black “Barrio” written on the wall stands in stark contrast to grandiose 8-foot tall wooden doors covering the entire entrance. Like something from a medieval castle, the huge doors swing open to reveal a dark, candlelit restaurant that will challenge anyone’s expectations of Mexican food.

Diners are seated among over 350 candles, some arranged in a huge wall bisecting the room, others in circular towers floating above the tables and booths. There’s not a light bulb in sight, and the waiters have to pass out small flashlights for easier menu reading. The smells wafting around are not those of lard and greasy meat but instead those of hand-made tortillas and zesty spices.

The word “barrio” in Spanish means “neighborhood,” which also describes the philosophy the owners and managers have about the restaurant’s food, drinks and atmosphere. Barrio’s Web site calls the restaurant an “approachable and inviting representation of modern Mexico.” It’s a place that avoids the usual tex-mex fare of places like Tacos Guaymas and La Cocina and instead opts for something more authentic, an example of what an upscale restaurant would be in a place like Mexico City.

“You’re not going to find refried beans here,” said Leigha Bone, one of Barrio’s managers. “We’re into fresh, local ingredients incorporated into traditional Mexican food.”

Barrio’s diverse menu contains everything from fresh chips and salsa to grilled ribeye steak and braised short ribs. While it might seem like a bit much to wade through at first, the waiters won’t hesitate to suggest things or explain any of the eatery’s many options in greater detail. The prices also vary: go during happy hour for $2 tacos and $5 margaritas, or opt for the more expensive dinner menu, where entrées range from $10 to $20, and drinks from $5 to $10.

Well worth the money, the dishes succeed in tinting traditionally Mexican food with a Northwest flare and flavor. The food is familiar but simultaneously exotic, combining the usual fare with exciting twists. The coconut rice served with the tacos and some other dishes has a noticeable sweetness that works extremely well, and the tacos themselves are full of juicy meat of all varieties. The marinade on the steak lends a spiciness to it that is reminiscent of the best fajitas. Also on the must-try list are their chips, which are handmade on-site in three different varieties: corn, yucca, and plantain and served with the diner’s choice of two salsas.

The cocktail menu is also extensive, containing the usuals like margaritas and piña coladas, and also lesser-known cocktails such as the “sangre de agave,” which contains both rum and tequila and is rounded off with lime juice and cassis. Just like on the food menu, there’s something for everyone, and the bartenders serve the drinks on the stiff side.

According to their Web site, Barrio’s vision is that of community, a place that “thrives off the street energy and relaxed locale of the neighborhoods we are pleased to call our Barrio.” The restaurant embodies those principles nicely, as the prices are very approachable for food of such high quality and the atmosphere makes it perfect for that special occasion or event when one wants to eat good food but still be able to relax while doing so.

Barrio is located on 12th Avenue between Pike and Madison. A second Barrio is scheduled to open in Bellevue later this year.